DIVE THE DREAM 2010
27 Apr to 17 May
Another adventure organised by Golden Boot Travel
Intrepid
adventurers:
Posh lot: Paul & Sue
Bussey, Paul & Sue Coxon, Dave & Annie Lester.
Plebs: Clive Bennett
(tour guide), Stuart Thornley, Gary & Milly Howard, Len & Rita Sumner,
Sibilia Quilici, Gill Seels, Fiona Ravenscroft, Amanda Radley.
27
Apr
So
the adventure begins on a sunny, cloudless day as the group crawl from their
various beds at the crack of dawn to travel to Heathrow. Volcanic ash from
Iceland had threatened to delay flights but it hadn’t dared to incur the wrath
of HWSAC.
First
surprise of the trip:
Len
& Rita, outside Bridges café in Heathrow, bumping into Sarah Thompson, a
comrade on a previous Golden Boot Travel trip to the Galapagos and Peru. Having
finished her world trip some time before, she was now off to Oz for a few
months. Except for the volcanic ash, she’d have flown out a week earlier.
Luckily
this is the 21st century so mobiles are used and we all meet for a coffee,
croissant and chat. The hugs, conversation and laughter so intrigued a woman
nearby that we had to explain who we were and where we were going. HWSAC
conquers the world!
Trouble-free
flight with Singapore Airlines to Singapore, although a couple of plebs (Len
& Rita) did manage to get seats on the Upper Deck with the Posh Lot. Super
aircraft – everyone had their own individual screen to watch their own choice
of entertainment.
28
Apr
Then
change planes and onward to Manado ………………..and it’s raining.
Annie
says it’s ‘special monsoon rain’. ‘Big Blob Rain’ ……….. So that’s ok then!
Second
surprise of the trip:
Bumping
into Duxie and Shelley (from Underwater Cameras) at a welcome drink get
together at Tasik Ria Resort near Manado. Duxie had given a talk to HWSAC on a
Big Tuesday a year or so previously. So obviously there was a lot of catching-up
that meant dry throats so a beer or five was needed. Oh, and the cocktails.
Next
day, late breakfast then into the pool for a swim, and refreshments at the bar
sitting on stools with our feet in the pool.
Annie: ‘I’m well oiled’.
Gary: ‘Decadence is falling off the bar stool
without hitting your head’.
No
one liked to point out that the alternative would be a possible drowning as the
bar stools were in the water.
Of
course some, (the Busseys, Gill, Stewart, Sibilia and Clive), were sensible and
did a weight check dive from the shore. Clive dropped his fin coming up the
steps (but Sue found it otherwise we may have needed to resurrect the Golden
Boot Award again), Stuart lost his snorkel and Gill almost went diving
without a snorkel. Gill NEVER dives without a snorkel. Would this set the
tone for the trip ……………? Len, Rita and Annie went snorkelling and saw a moray,
neh neh ne neh neh!
At
dinner, Annie raised the game. ‘Who’s the clean-cut, handsome, blue-eyed chap
that played German baddies? It was 40 years ago so he could be dead’. We
never got an answer to that. Second question: ‘What was the horror film where
a house was built over a cemetery, a family moved in, and was haunted?’ No one
knew, but many brain cells were killed thinking about it. As the General
Election would be held shortly we also discussed politics – bad move.
Another
late breakfast, this was the R & R before the gruelling dive trip to come.
(If you believe that, you’ll believe anything). After breakfast we saw two
sea-horses under the wooden pontoon near the jetty. Much excitement. Unbelievably,
there would be a time when we said ‘Not another bl—dy sea-horse’.
Lunchtime
– well we needed to build ourselves up for said gruelling trip – and more
intellectual conversation led by Annie who still wanted the name of the horror
film. We were put out of our misery by Dan Green, the manager of Tasik Ria,
who had a web-enabled phone. Answer for those remotely interested:
‘Poltergeist’.
Other
conversations.
Annie: ‘Do you remember Gentian Violet, used
on wounds’. Stuart: ‘Yes, it was used for VD’. (That’s Venereal Disease, not
Victory in Europe Day, another concept altogether, although possibly the two
could be linked).
Gill, talking about spliffs, ‘Steve elegantly
rolled me one’. Well we think she was still talking about spliffs. Also, can
you get organic hash, certified by the Soil Association?
30
Apr
Time
to leave Tasik Ria, the staff assembled on the steps to give us a send-off,
singing traditional Indonesian songs.
The
reputation of HWSAC had obviously travelled fast. The conference guests turned
up too and joined in. Not only singing but also accompanying on a
piano/organ. And an encore! Perhaps they were just glad to see the back of
us. Little did they know – we’d be back.
One
of the Indonesian conference guests had red hair and very pale skin. He didn’t
look, or sing, like Mick Hucknall but may share some distant ancestry!
Slight
panic when we got off the coach, no boat in sight. Sigh of relief, it was
parked up around the corner.
Another
panic when we saw the entire luggage piled up on the, very small, transfer
boat. However, all was well and we were soon aboard the MV Liburan and
choosing our ‘luxurious’ cabins.
Intellectual
conversation resumed: French automatic WC’s and the difficulty of using in a
hurry. Apparently they look a bit like a clam opening. Or a pearl in an
oyster.
Drinks
on the sundeck, watched glow worms, then Paul B went ashore for a memory card
and the crew went for tonic water.
More
conversation, not repeatable, about whether something was a misnomer – ‘it
depends how skilled you are’. Gary: ‘I’ll never know’. Everybody
else: ‘Not necessarily’
At
last ………………. Diving.
Dive
Guides:
Harris, Charles, Andri
1st
May
– Bunaken
Island – Fukui 26m (aka Stingray Point), a sloping coral reef
(EcoReef, snowflake ceramics to form an artificial reef). Giant Clams,
schooling Fusiliers, Manta Shrimps, Sweetlips, Banner fish, many different
corals.
Bunaken
Island – Lekuan II 29m Wall dive
Many canyons and cracks in the vertical walls. Chances to see
banner fish, damselfish, pyramid butterfly fish, sea snakes, large emperor
fish, groupers, lionfish and scorpion fish, Napoleon wrasse, turtles and
sometimes white-tip reef sharks. The reef is filled with feather stars,
gorgonians, black corals, giant sponges and ascidians.
Turtle,
Commensal Shrimp, Bumphead Parrotfish
Bunaken
Island – Depan Kampung 17m Wall drift dive
Turtle
on shelf with two Ramores, Napoleon Wrasse, Box Fish, Lion Fish in the coral,
Parrot Fish
Pancakes
with jam or chocolate provided sustenance before the night dive. The surface
interval also gave time for incriminating photos of Len and Milly on the
sundeck. Not to mention a stunning photo of three bottoms (Annie, Sue Coxon
and Len) looking over the back of the boat.
Bunaken
Island – Alung Banua 12m (night dive)
2nd
May
Rita
had serious problems with her sinuses so did no more dives from the
liveaboard. Boo Hoo. Didn’t do the famous muck diving in Lembeh Straits.
Lembeh
Strait – Batu Kapal 35m
This
is the best big fish dive in North Sulawesi. Species such as dogtooth tuna,
barracuda, big-eyed jacks, giant trevally and rainbow runners well represented.
Turtles, white-tip and grey reef sharks as well as eagle rays are also common.
Bunaken
Island - Barracuda Point 24m
The reef offers sponges, whip corals and soft corals. Surgeonfish,
groupers, triggerfish, parrotfish, banner fish, snappers,fusiliers, jacks,
tunas, bump head parrotfish, sharks and schools of black fin barracudas.
Sempini
Point 8m
Good
for cuttle fish and nudibrachs
Dave
Lester’s birthday, time for cake with candles and the crew singing Happy
Birthday.
3rd
May
– Bangka Island – Batu Goso 37m
Highlights include: White
Tip & Black Tip Sharks, Turtles, Groupers, Yellow, green and red soft
corals.
Bangka
Island – Batu Sahaune 31m
Bangka
Island – Tanjung Sahaune 21m
Lembeh
Strait - Critter Hunt 17m
4th
May
– Lembeh Strait – Coral Garden 36m
Lembeh
Strait – Teluk Kembahu III 19m
Many different types of pipefish, also in the sand stargazers
and devilfish have been seen.
Lembeh
Strait – Jahir Point 20m
Another
great muck site with lots of purple-heart urchins, home to the beautiful Zebra
crab. Ambon scorpion fish are regulars along with tiny frogfish and many eels.
Annie,
Rita and Sue Coxon decided to shower in order to be fragrant for when their men
returned. Rita made an extra effort and wore a skirt rather than trousers. Even
the crew noticed!
Later
Gill, a vision in white top and trousers, bent over causing a comment from all
‘Nice lacy thong you’re wearing’.
Dave
Lester had another massage. He was beginning to like having his body
caressed ………. shame the masseur was a muscular man.
This
time it was Sue Bussey’s birthday, so more cake with candles, more singing
Happy Birthday.
Unfortunately,
the guide Andri had to leave as his grandfather had died. It would take him
six hours to travel home.
5th
May
– Bunaken Island – Batu Mandi (Tanjung Pulisan) 26m
Soft
coral, many sea fans, Angler Fish, Lion Fish, Ghost Pipefish, Crocodile Fish,
Scorpion Fish
Tanjung
Tarowitan (Tarobitan) 22m
Unknown
19m
Our
last day on the boat and as usual the food was delicious. We had fruit salad,
noodle soup, spaghetti bolognaise, rice and chicken.
The
soup prompted a food discussion. We usually had soup for breakfast and dinner
but not lunch. Pineapple at breakfast and dinner, but papaya at lunch. One
day they confused us by serving pineapple for breakfast and lunch, papaya for
dinner.
Had
tasty fried bananas as a snack between dives.
On
one dive Gary dived without his cylinder turned on. [Buddy check?] On another,
Len tried to stand up but was still strapped in.
Trade
mark of the zimmer divers – pointed stick.
Before
we left MV Liburan, we posed for the obligatory group photo. The crew were
superb and it was a shame to leave but we had more adventures in store.
Back
on dry land, headed back to Tasik Ria, via an ATM. Len’s card ‘apparently’
wouldn’t work so Rita had to withdraw one million Indonesian Rupiah.
She looked pale and had to lay down in the dark to recover.
Annie:
‘I’m a neoprene groupie’ [She likes zipping up Stuart’s suit]
Clive
re-appeared at 10.15 after a massage – 95% of his body massaged to
destruction. Only his ears remained untouched (according to Rita). Not sure
if this was on the Liveaboard or at Tasik Ria as he indulged often, as did
others.
At
Tasik Ria, Rita had Long Island Iced Teas x 2, couldn’t understand why the door
to the hotel room was
a)
locked, b) on the left not the right. Answer: Because it was the back door and
she was on the wrong side of the building!
6
May
By
now Amanda and Fiona had flown in to join the merry band. Up and about at the
unearthly hour 7.30 am, for a trip to Manado to see the local sights including
a large statue of Jesus.
We
viewed it from an upmarket housing development ‘Citraland’ where the governor’s
son lived.
Onward
to a market in Tomohon where locals were buying their
provisions. Apart from many vegetables there were various sources of protein
to be had: fish, pork, snake, fruit bat (with their wings cut off) and dog.
The latter were in cages outside waiting to be chosen. You really can’t beat
fresh meat.
According
to the guide, they weren’t family pets but just wild dogs. Well you’d be wild
if you were kept in a small cage.
The
people were incredibly friendly and no-one objected to photographers getting in
the way.
At
10.30 am it started to rain and we headed to the volcano Mount Mahawu,
passing Japanese cucumbers growing in fields on frames, like grapes.
Walking
in the rain to the crater, the noise from the cicadas was almost deafening. At
the top, Annie gave the order ‘eyes ahead’ in order to admire the view …… or it
could have been because she and Rita needed a pee stop.
The
rain continued; the view into the crater disappeared . Some intrepid souls
tried to walk around the rim but gave up as it was too slippery.
Onward
to a restaurant near Lake Tonando, 600m above the sea. It had various decks
made from bamboo, enclosing pools containing fish. Food cannot get much
fresher.
We
had little cakes of shredded fish with a chilli dipping sauce, fried fish, corn
fritters, greens, rice, meat (chicken? pork? dog?) in soy sauce.
As
we sat there, we could see the rain moving across the lake like a mist.
Travelling
on, there was an altercation between the coach driver and a horse and cart.
The
horse, frightened by the noisy coach, almost bolted. The cart driver just
managed to get the horse back under control. The coach driver phoned his boss,
spoke to the cart driver who then drove off. The coach caught up, driver
tooted his horn to frighten the animal again and HWSAC, as one, shouted
NO.
Calming
down, we headed to Lake Linow, renowned for its changing colour. The
rain had eased so we walked round looking at the sulphur springs and the
bubbling lake. Downpour resumed so time for coffee or tea at the lakeside
café, eating macaroons and fried banana with sugar whilst looking at the
raindrops bouncing off the tables and floor.
Next
stop the village of Woloan to see Minahasan traditional houses being
built. These were amazing built in ‘knock-down’ style, on stilts and with
intricate carved woodwork, and could be re-constructed elsewhere. At USD
10,000 they were a bargain but costly in excess baggage charges. Also
contained a huge beetle.
7
May
At
breakfast Clive asked for Immodium, which Sue B thoughtfully provided but
wasn’t sure of its ‘end date’. Stuart said the end date would be after obvious
symptoms had disappeared!
Clive:
‘This is my first waffle’ (meaning breakfast choice).
Stuart:
‘Oh, no it isn’t’. Not sure exactly what he meant by that.
Next
excitement – White Water Rafting. On the way, Milly saw a yellow
penguin by the side of the road. No she wasn’t drunk (this time), it was a
badge on a grey waste water system. The things that Gary teaches her …..
When
we arrived the rafts hadn’t been inflated so this gave time for faff-factor,
the first so far.
Annie
got locked in the loo, cue chorus of ‘Oh, dear, what can the matter be …...’.
Eventually
we all were kitted with hard hats and life jackets and given a dry
demonstration. We even ran through an elementary SEEDS, in true BSAC fashion,
but as ever the ‘D’ was mainly ignored.
It
was supposed to be a grade 3, the same as a previous experience in Peru. BUT,
due to the heavy rain it was upgraded to a 3/4.
The
experience was amazing. Each raft had 2 experienced crew and in the main, 3
passengers. If that was a grade 3, then Peru must have been a 2. Not only was
this longer but also was faster and had more bends and boulders in the river.
The
crew were well trained and when things got really hairy, we were all told to
hunker down in the rafts rather than sitting on the tubes. Danger over, back
on the tubes again.
There
were casualties of course. Rita, being on the slow side occasionally, didn’t
duck her head quickly enough and got caught in the face by a whiplashing branch.
Milly dislodged a contact lens.
A
raft overturned, throwing Clive, Annie and Gill in the water but the crew
safely recovered both them and the raft. Oh what a shame.
They
did look a bit shell shocked though and Clive later sported a huge purple
bruise on his inner right thigh, from knee to groin. Although it could have
been from getting out of a small dive boat.
A
lunch of rice, fish on the bone, greens, cucumber, chilli sauce, raw onions /
peppers / chillis in water / lemon juice / oil soon put things right. As you
can tell, food isn’t very important to us.
In
the bar later, we chatted to a couple of nice Americans from California and to
the manager Dan Green. Dan kissed Annie (the floozy!), was going to kiss Gill
but thought he’d better be careful as she was damaged (from the WWR).
Gill
replied ‘Only down there’. Dan went white and retreated.
Later
we were entertained by students from a local elementary school performing three
dances. At least one was a traditional Minahasan dance thanking God for a good
harvest; another was a Poco Poco dance popular in Manado.
Sibilia
informed us ‘Les carrots rendent aimable’! It means ‘Carrots make you nicer
(more polite). Not sure why the comment arose but Rita vowed to buy carrots by
the sackful in future.
8
May
Revenge
of the WWR whiplash branch: Rita’s eye is almost shut due to swelling. Highly
inconvenient as we are leaving Tasik Ria for a more isolated island. Doctor
travels from Manado and prescribes antibiotics, anti-histamine, pain killers and
eye cream.
Airline
sleep mask utilised as an eye patch – very fetching! It was suggested that we
find a crutch, a label for begging and a parrot squawking ‘Pieces of Eight’ to
complete the ensemble. Luckily, by the time the plane took off from Manado at
3.30pm, the swelling had gone down a little.
Next
stop, Hotel Sankika at Makassar (aka Ujung Pandang). Makassar is the largest
city on Sulawesi Island and is the provincial capital of South Sulawesi. For
those of you old enough to remember, Makassar was the origin of a type of hair
oil, hence the advent of ‘anti-macassar’. Not many people know that.
Food
again – some went out searching for a recommended fish restaurant. The more
sensible (knackered) ate in the hotel however a few were surprised to find out
that as the steaks were flown in frozen from Australia, it wasn’t possible for
them to be served ‘medium-rare’.
Amanda
indulged in some synchronised storm-drain diving on the way back from the
restaurant. Was alcohol involved? As if …..
9
May
Another
flight: Ujung Pandang (aka Makassar) to Sorong on the Papua Province of
Indonesia (formerly known as Irian Jaya). At the airport we met Emily, working
for UNICEF in Jakarta but originally from Vancouver, and her partner. He is a
PADI divemaster and hails from Amersham. Small world.
Time
to brace ourselves for a 2 hr boat trip to Kri Island, Raja Ampat. Unlike the
return trip, this was uneventful with the luggage on one boat, passengers on
the other. In a civilised manner we dropped the Posh Lot first at Sorido Bay
and the Plebs journeyed around the corner to Kri Eco.
Raja
Ampat (meaning Four Kings) is the global epicentre of marine biodiversity having a
recorded 1320 species of coral reef fish and over 540 species of hard coral.
That’s 70% of all known coral species.
The
islands cover 4 million hectares of land and sea off the far North-Western tip
of the Papua Province of Indonesia. The native people had little contact with
the outside world until 1950’s and still travel primarily by canoe / prahoe
The
resorts, Kri Eco and Sorido Bay, were founded by Max Ammer of Papua Diving
around 1994. He mostly employs only indigenous Indonesians as dive guides and
staff. Max is passionate about stopping the destruction and pollution of Raja
Ampat, and was instrumental in the implementation of the Raja Ampat Marine
Park.
After
meeting Max, Dr Gerald Allen canvassed Conservation International for Papua to
be included in its conservation programme, achieving this in 2001. By 2007 the
Raja Ampat Marine Park was in place, charging an annual tourism fee of Rp
500,000 to visitors. Part of the fee goes to community development,
conservation and enforcement. This covers both marine and land based
activities, such as logging and mining, plus healthcare for mothers and
children, also improved water wells and chlorination.
The
two resorts were very different. Kri Eco had over-water bamboo-constructed
bungalows on stilts. Each bungalow had a verandah with hammocks for lazing,
beds with mosquito nets. It was very hot and humid at night, lots of sweaty
bodies. Even the men thought they must be having menopausal hot sweats.
Len
and Rita, jammy souls, were allocated the only ‘detached’ bungalow. All the
others were in ‘semis’ with only a bamboo partition wall separating them.
Pl-e-e-e-e-e-a-se don’t let the neighbours snore. Or anything else.
Indonesian
bathrooms, called Mandis, were nearby. Easy to use, water was in a large
container, simply scooped up and tipped over the head and body. Amazingly refreshing.
The
kitchen, food preparation and dining area was alongside the beach, over the sea
– a wonderful view of fish (pipe fish, black tipped reef shark, parrot fish
etc) and sunsets reflected in the water. PJ wine – crisp, clear, perfectly
chilled - was served with meals. [Note PJ = pre Jesus, i.e. water.] Other
wine was very expensive so the alcohol of choice was beer.
No
shoes were worn; all the pathways were sand. At the end of each wooden walkway
to the bungalows, was a basin of water to wash sand from feet.
Sorido
Bay had
Western comforts in traditional Papuan setting. The restaurant had a choice of
3 meals daily. All the brick-built thatched bungalows were on the water’s edge
and had bathrooms with running water; the pathways were wooden decking. When
the Plebs visited, they looked in puzzlement for basins to rinse their feet!
It
also featured a pet lizard (about the size of a basset hound) and a
never-ending supply of cashew nuts.
The
Posh Lot and the Plebs only met up occasionally, the resorts being apart by a
10 min walk around the bay at low tide. However there was a memorable meal
together in the Sorido Bay restaurant on the last evening.
Papua
Diving limit the divers on any site, so we often had differing experiences of
the same sites. The Posh Lot dived together; the Plebs split into groups.
Clive, Stuart, Gill, Sibilia, Amanda and Fiona dived together – the A team. The
Somehow team (Len & Rita Sumner, Gary & Milly Howard),
dived together along with a Belgian couple, Thierry and Violane. They also
dived with Hans.
Thierry
and Violane were friendly and great fun. They had only started diving recently:
start at the top of dive experiences and work down! He worked for the EU,
based in Jakarta and was soon to be posted to Malawi.
9
May cont’d
After
dinner a tired contingent went to bed early. Hot & sticky, Rita awoke at
11.30pm walked to the Mandi and toilet. Returning, she noticed that Len’s
sandal had fallen from the jetty. Ever the dutiful wife, by moonlight she waded
into the sea to find it. But couldn’t. Len awoke, got torch, found said
sandal underneath the step not in the water.
10
May
Typical
breakfast of cereals, noodles, juice, coffee and tea in Kri Eco. Posh Lot
probably had that too, but with knobs on.
Two
dives before lunch and one after. This was the usual timetable with an
occasional night dive. Between dives was chilling time on the jetty, in
hammocks or in the sea. Clive’s contingent, The A team, was alarmed to have a
boat engine fire, but all was well. Almost at the dive site, Stuart realised
he hadn’t got his computer.
After
the 3rd dive, Amanda, Clive, Gary and Milly walked along the
overland trail to Sorido Bay to report back on facilities. They were so
overcome, they had to get the boat back.
11
May
More
problems for The A Team’s boat: the engine mis-fired and broke down again.
After the 2nd dive, they changed boats. Amanda let air out of BC to
descend, went to clear ears, hadn’t got reg. in mouth. [Note: air in jacket,
hand over mask and reg. ……]. Rita almost forgot rash vest (needed because wet
suit rubbing neck).
Cleaner
fish from Manta station nibbled Len’s, Gary’s, Clive’s and Stuart’s ears. Len
ascended with his hands over his ears. Will this start a trend?
After
the Arborek dive, the Somehow’s walked to the Arborek Tourism Village before
having a picnic lunch on the beach.
Time
for the Posh Lot to join the real world – the engine almost fell out of their
boat.
12
May
This
was the day the Somehows dived Sorido Wall, no current, very bland.
The
Posh Lot had already dived it – a different experience altogether.
Quote: One other memory I
have (as someone who usually avoids anything above a gentle drift) is of one
particular dive in Papua with a teeth-rattling current, being thrown up the
reef wall where I grabbed onto a piece of rock and hung on for my life. Paul
eventually found me there and had to prise my fingers off the rock. After that
we hooked onto the reef and hung onto the rope as the current tried to rip our masks
from our faces, while the barracuda nonchalantly hung there without even a
flick of their tails, watching us from the corner of their eyes. Even the guides
apologised for the current when we eventually surfaced, so I was reassured that
I wasn't just being a wimp.
After
the 2nd dive the rain set in and continued through lunch. At night
it rained so hard that the bamboo shutters had to be closed over the glassless
windows, and the sliding bamboo doors shut to keep the rain out. The Posh Lot
probably hardly noticed.
13
May
The
Somehow’s went whale watching on the way to Mike’s Point. Max Ammer
flew over their boat in his seaplane, landing nearby. He’d spotted whales,
agreed to find them again then circle overhead. The boat set off in pursuit,
changing direction as the plane did. Two whales were seen but the boat
couldn’t keep up so a snorkelling opportunity was lost.
Vicki
Billings had to drop out at the last minute so a postcard was bought for her.
She was sorely missed, especially for her marine knowledge. Without her, the
divers themselves had to pore over the books, looking at photos. ‘It’s a
spotty fish’ just wasn’t going to suffice.
Clive
kayaked over to Sorido Bay, mistakenly believing that Stuart had snorkelled
over the day before. He hadn’t: the current had been too strong. Naughty
Stuart to tell porky pies.
14
May
Gary
cut his finger quite deeply today. He was also having hot flushes and lots of
pink, fluffy moments. Totally unlike Gary! Septicaemia or menopausal? Hard
to tell but definitely not terminal.
Len
had moment of epiphany on the jetty. The noise he thought was a chain saw was
actually the compressor.
The
tour leader (Clive) was counting the total number of dives (375). Rita had the
least, due to a sinus problem on the liveaboard.
Clive:
‘It’s not a competition’. Len: ‘Yes it is and Rita came last’.
At
9.00pm a downpour started, accompanied by a lightning show. Didn’t auger well
for the next morning early start bird-watching trip.
15
May
Some
brave souls left at 4.30 am for a Bird of Paradise bird-watching trip on a
nearby island. It was muddy underfoot, misty and that particular bird proved
elusive.
At
Kri Eco it was time to investigate under the jetty – spectacular. Some dived
first thing, others snorkelled. Rita, snorkelling, was startled when Sibilia
dived in just ahead. Sibilia maintained that she was a ‘fashion fish’.
Interesting
note:
When younger, Clive got bored with training for swimming; changed to water polo
so he could play with his balls. No chance of boredom after that!
Plebs
met with Posh Lot at Sorido Bay for dinner in very smart restaurant. Our tour
leader, Clive, was presented with a stunning photographic book, signed by all
the others: ‘The Raja Ampat through the Lens of………….’.
Food
and company outstanding but very hot and stuffy: Annie and Rita went to lie on
the jetty and look at the stars. Others soon followed. Back to Kri Eco on a
small boat, holding a hand torch to light the way for the skipper. H & S
eat your heart out.
16
May
Breakfast
then chilling in hammock. Icelandic volcano still blowing: Spain. Ireland and
some of Europe closed for flying. Would we get home or would we have to stay
longer? Lunch, more chilling.
Journey
home:
First part boat trip to Sorong, three boats in all. On we got, sitting inside
on bench seats. The luggage was also inside, piled up against the rear doors.
Some of the resort staff were sitting outside, just the other side of the rear
doors. No one mentioned it, but each was planning their own escape route in
event of an emergency. It involved elbowing others out of the way to get out
of the small hatch at the front, next to the skipper. Women and children
first? Not a hope.
As
we left it was comparatively calm: that soon changed. Wind, rain and waves
picked up, we were bouncing up and down on the bench seats, holding on for grim
death convinced we would be six inches shorter by the end. Two hours, a whole
120 minutes is a long time!
When
Annie arrived we thought she was the ‘before’ in a Tena Lady advert. Allegedly
got soaked by the leaking windows.
Dinner
was a set menu at Hotel Meridian, as it finished at 9.40 pm the downpour and
lightening began.
17
May
Woke
at 6.00am, breakfasted 6.30 am, ready to leave at 7.15 am, left for airport at
8.00 am. OMG, HWSAC was ready ahead of time. That must be a first.
Annie:
‘Haven’t washed my face all holiday, its self cleansing’.
Took
a flight from Sarong to Manado, flying over Kri Island on the way. Lunch for
some was Nasi Goreng (with egg). Because of airport taxes, some had no money –
Stuart kindly paid. A reasonable usary charge was levied later no doubt.
Volcanic
ash still blowing but not toward London so no chance of a few more days in
Indonesia or Singapore.
Luggage
checked in for the flight to Singapore and on to Heathrow. Len tried to
blackmail Rita, after boarding plane to Singapore. Unless Rita was nice to
him, he will not give her the boarding pass for next part of trip. He will PAY
for this! Plane took off in downpour but landed safely 3 hours later.
Chaos
at Singapore airport about whether to ‘do’ city. Organised tours had finished
and all were tired and tetchy (3 weeks is a long time to be together).
Possibility of flight being delayed, apparently airport was closed but now
possibly re-opened. Airport staff thought there wasn’t time to get into, and
out of the city.
Confusion
reigned. Sue B had visited Raffles before so she and Paul opted to stay in the
airport. The others split into groups and made their way to the Long Bar in
Raffles Hotel. Rita changed her ensemble before venturing out and discovered
she had extremely smelly feet. Wet wipes were brought into action,
behind closed doors, and all was well.
Drinking
Singapore Gin Slings, eating monkey nuts then tossing the shells on the floor
was fun, but not cheap. At £12.50 each, with a group of four, £100.00 was soon
spent. Hey ho, soon be back to Blightly and living on fish and chips.
After
Raffles, a quick walk around Cathedral Court before getting a taxi back to the
airport. Still got some money left? Better buy prezzies then. Or eat icecream.
Or both.
Long
flight back on Singapore Airlines, still with excellent entertainment. What to
watch? The Last Station? Hair Spray? Crazy Heart?
18
May
Touch
down safely at Heathrow. Phew. Need a holiday to recover now.
Dive
Guides at Kri
Edison,
Wawan, Malky, Yange and Rina
Dive
sites at Kri Island (water
temp 29 – 30 degrees C)
Cape
Mansuar, Manta Point 24m
Manta
Ray, octopus, pygmy sea horse, leaf fish, yellow tailed barracuda, small
nudibranchs etc
Otdima 28m, strong
current
Schooling
sweetlips, stonefish, sleeping shark, barramundi cod (large spotted grouper),
crocodile fish etc, pygmy sea horse
Sleeping
Barracuda
22m
Barracuda,
dancing shrimps, pygmy sea horse
Arborek 19m
Barramundi
cod, crabs (blue/white striped), pygmy sea horse
Manta
Sandy
17 m
Settled
on the bottom to watch Manta Rays at a cleaning station, pygmy sea horse
Koh
Reef
21m drift dive
Wobbegongs
(up to 3.2 m, most 1.5m), pygmy sea horse
Friwenbonda 21m Overhangs
Pygmy
seahorses
Mios
Kon 20m
drift dive with overhangs
Wobbegong
sharks and lots of critters, pygmy sea horse
Sorido
Wall
20m (One group: strong currents, scary. Another group: no current,
bland)
Crocodile
fish, pygmy sea horse
Blue
Magic 23m
Wobbegongs,
mantis shrimps, sharks, pygmy sea horse
Mike’s
Point 23m
Whales,
wobbegongs, scorpion fish, lots of coral including gorgonian fan coral, sea
snake.
Cape
Kri 30m
pygmy
sea horse
Sardines
Reef 22m
Batfish,
black tipped reef sharks, barracuda, moray eels, pod of dolphins, pygmy sea
horse
Surgeon
Fish Slope 20m
pygmy
sea horse
House
Reef – Kri Jetty 19m
Cuttlefish,
crocodile fish, stonefish, small shrimps, large pufferfish, large turtle, black
tipped reef sharks, pygmy sea horse
NB May not have seen pygmy
sea horses at all those sites but it certainly seemed that way. As Titi
(Thierry) said: ‘Not another bl**dy pygmy seahorse’. That’s expurgated as he was
Belgian and may not have actually sworn.